C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien in Oxford: Key Locations and Walking Trail

Oxford was the intellectual and spiritual backdrop to the enduring friendship of C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien. It was here that the two scholars read early drafts of their work aloud, strolled beneath ancient college trees, and debated myth, language, and faith. For anyone looking to trace their steps, Oxford offers a remarkably cohesive landscape of collegiate quadrangles, riverside walkways, historic watering holes, and suburban havens.

The Core University Colleges

Both authors were deeply entrenched in Oxford's collegiate life, though their affiliations spanned several different institutions across the city centre.

Magdalen College: Lewis's Intellectual Home

C.S. Lewis was elected a Fellow of Magdalen College in 1925, taking up residence in the 18th-century New Building overlooking the deer park. It was in his second-floor room here in Trinity Term 1929 that Lewis, in his own words, reluctantly knelt and admitted that God was God. Magdalen is also home to Addison’s Walk, a picturesque circular pathway looping along the River Cherwell. On a warm September evening in 1931, Lewis, Tolkien, and Hugo Dyson walked here late into the night, engaged in a conversation on myth and Christianity that fundamentally reshaped Lewis’s personal convictions.

Visitors can enter Magdalen College daily (typically between 10:00 am and dusk or 5:00 pm, extending to 6:30 pm from July through September). Standard adult admission is £10.00, while concession tickets cost £9.00. Exploring the grounds allows access to the cloisters, chapel, and Addison's Walk, though private residential staircases remain closed to the public.

Merton College: Tolkien’s Post-War Professorship

Just off the High Street sits Merton College, where Tolkien served as Merton Professor of English Language and Literature from 1945 until his retirement in 1959. Merton features some of the university's earliest surviving architecture, including Mob Quad and its 14th-century library. The college is open to visitors Monday to Friday from 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm, Saturdays from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm, and Sundays from noon to 5:00 pm (last admission at 4:30 pm), with adult admission priced at £5.00 and concessions at £3.00. Note that access covers the quads and the chapel, while areas such as the Fellows’ Garden and private residential halls are closed to the public.

Exeter and Pembroke Colleges

Tolkien’s early university connection began when he matriculated at Exeter College in October 1911, initially studying Classics before shifting to English Language and Literature. Later, between 1925 and 1945, Tolkien held a fellowship at Pembroke College as the Rawlinson and Bosworth Professor of Anglo-Saxon. It was during these two decades at Pembroke that he penned The Hobbit and large sections of The Lord of the Rings. Commemorating this productive era, Pembroke College unveiled a bronze memorial relief of Tolkien in its Old Quad in June 2024, created by his great-nephew, sculptor Tim Tolkien.

University College

On the south side of the High Street stands University College, informally known as "Univ." It was here that C.S. Lewis first arrived as an undergraduate scholar in April 1917, occupying rooms on staircase XII in the Radcliffe Quad before pausing his studies to train for military service.

Inklings Pub Haunts and Historic Gathering Spots

The literary group known as the Inklings—consisting of Lewis, Tolkien, and companions such as Charles Williams and Hugo Dyson—met regularly to share pints, pipes, and draft chapters of their fiction.

• The Eagle and Child: Situated on St Giles', this traditional pub (fondly nicknamed "The Bird and Baby") was the primary gathering place where the Inklings met on Tuesday mornings to discuss their latest writings.
• The King's Arms and The White Horse: When wartime beer shortages struck Oxford, the Inklings occasionally shifted their gatherings to these spots on Holywell Street and Broad Street. Major Warren Lewis, C.S. Lewis's brother, noted visiting The King's Arms for quiet pints with fellow group members.
• The Mitre and The Eastgate Hotel: Positioned at the corner of Merton Street and the High Street, the Eastgate Hotel served as an especially convenient dining place for Lewis and Tolkien, nicely positioned between Magdalen and Merton. The historic Mitre on the High Street was another frequent gathering retreat.

University Church and St. Cross

Beyond lecture halls and taverns, the spiritual fabric of Oxford is tied to both writers. Lewis preached one of his most celebrated sermons, "The Weight of Glory," from the pulpit of the University Church of St Mary the Virgin on the High Street. A short stroll northeast brings you towards St. Cross Cemetery, located off Jowett Walk, which serves as the final resting place for key members of the Inklings circle, including Charles Williams, Austin Farrer, and Hugo Dyson.

Headington: The Kilns and Holy Trinity Church

For visitors willing to venture just east of the city centre into suburban Headington, two major Lewis sites await:

• The Kilns: Lewis's beloved home in Headington Quarry served as his domestic retreat for decades. Tours of the Kilns are conducted strictly by appointment on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Advance booking at least two weeks ahead is recommended, as the building functions as an active study centre. Effective August 1, 2026, admission is £25 for adults, £20 for seniors and students, and £15 for children, with filming prohibited inside.
• Holy Trinity Church: Located in Headington Quarry, this 1849 church designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott was Lewis's place of worship for over 30 years. Today, you can view the church's memorial "Narnia Window" and Lewis's grave in the quiet churchyard.

Planning Your Route: Guided vs Self-Guided

Navigating the literary landscape of Oxford can be tailored around your own schedule and pace.

Self-Guided Exploration

A self-guided walking trail in central Oxford typically covers around 2 to 3.5 miles and can easily be completed in an afternoon. Starting along Broad Street, you can take in the exterior of Exeter College, pass down Holywell Street, pause by St. Cross, and proceed to Magdalen College in time for afternoon visiting hours. From Magdalen, continuing west along the High Street connects you to the Eastgate Hotel, University College, the University Church, and down Merton Street to Merton College.

Organised Walking Tours

If you prefer an escorted narrative with background historical context, scheduled options run in the city centre. For instance, Oxford Official Walking Tours provides an official two-hour C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien walking tour departing on selected Saturdays from outside 23–25 Broad Street. These excursions are limited to small groups of 20 participants, offering a structured stroll past the colleges, lanes, and landmarks that shaped twentieth-century fantasy literature.

Cover photo: Merton College

By Alyssa.